Monday, 23 July 2012

Crowds are good - if you keep moving, open spaces are good ...

talking in the street is ok - if you have to...






Great success! I've finally worked out the location of the spy training scene from the Russia House - its in Symons Street London - a street that runs alongside the Peter Jones store in Knightsbridge.  The quest to identify this scene has been a long one.  In the film, Ned is seen waiting inside the doorway of a butcher's shop, whose name is visible on the shop window - Cobb of Knightsbridge.

  A search on the internet for that company will tell you that there was a butchers of that name, latterly part of the Dewhurst chain which is no more, and their last known address was Clifton Road in Maida Vale.  From a quick look on Google Streetview, it is clear that Clifton Road is not the location of this scene.  I'd almost given up trying to identify the street, when I spotted a Cobb of Knightsbridge model delivery van on Ebay.  On the van's livery, it is almost possible to read the original address - Symons Street.  As you can see from the above photo, this street has changed quite a lot over the last 20 odd years - gone are all the original shops: a dry cleaners, buthers, tile shop, wine merchant; all to be replaced by The White Company which seems to occupy all the premises on this side of the street.


Thursday, 9 February 2012

A large unmade bed


I look like a large, unmade bed - with a shopping bag attached

Today, I bought a red gingham shirt. Why? Is it fashionable? Do I particularly like the style? Is it because I wish to adopt the dress codes of certain age groups or social classes?  No.  My enduring obsession with The Russia House compelled me to don some of the attire of the film's leading character - Barley Scott Blair.  Not the full outfit, as seen here, but just a hint to acknowledge the continuing influence of the Russia House on my life - a kind of badge of allegiance to the underground band of fellow Russia House obsessives, or perhaps simply a sign of a deluded fantasist, donning the attire to slip into the role, to become the character ,  to live and breath the role for just a second or two. Like Mr Ben.  I was the same back in he early 90s whenever I wore my grey double breasted suit, like the character played by James Fox in the film.  As soon as the buttons were fastened, I was like "hello, my name's Ned, I'm from British Intelligence ..." .  My "Nedsky" suit is long gone, double breasted suits fell out of fashion.  Now, if only Marksies did those linen suits in more of a brown colour.

Thursday, 18 November 2010

Worker and Collective Farm Woman Monument

Opening ceremony of


Refurbished monument unveiled on a new pedastal in the All-Russia Exhibition Center in Moscow (formerly the Soviet Economic Achievements Park VDNKh) . This is what it looked like when I was there in 2002:


Tuesday, 15 September 2009

My interest in Russia


I became interested in Russia during the mid- eighties when I was learning about the russian revolution at school, although it wasn't until I visited the place that my interest became quite so serious.

In 1988, I went to Russia for the first time when it was still the Soviet Union and I have been back four times since then: 1989, 1993, 2002 and 2003. As I write this, I can't believe it's been so long since my last trip! Although all my trips have included Moscow I have also visited St Petersburg and the Golden Ring cities of Vladimir and Suzdal.


There is something about Russia which makes most of us foreigners who live here spend most of our idle hours discussing the country's ills, proposing remedies and speculating about prospects for recovery. In a sense this is patronising. However it also demonstrated Russia's unique ability to stimulate foreigner's interest, even love. Perhaps because of the universality of its great literature and art, perhaps because of its size, strength and a particular kind of purity, Russia represents the human condition and struggle of the human spirit more vividly than our own countries. We are fascinated by what we see here, we want to be part of the struggle. We personally - often involuntarily - identify with this people's difficulties and fate. This is not patronising, but a testimony to Russia's greatness.

George Feifer, Message from Moscow

Tuesday, 21 January 2003

British Airways switches to Domodedovo


From July, British Airways passengers flying into Moscow will not face the gloom of Sheremetyevo airport with its too few passport control koisks and luggage carousels as the airline has announced that it will start flying out of Domodedovo Airport on July 1 2003, in a cross-town move that will cost Sheremetyevo one of its biggest clients.

British Airways said the main reason that it decided to switch airports was a common passenger complaint: shoddy service.

"We in BA have decided to make this move because customer service is key to our business and to our success," said Daniel Burkard, British Airways commercial manager for Eastern Europe.

"Domodedovo is a modern, user-friendly airport with a high level of customer appeal. It has state-of-the-art facilities, a good infrastructure, excellent transfer service and is easily accessible," Burkard said at a news conference.

British Airways will continue to offer 14 flights a week from Moscow, as well as its five flights a week from St. Petersburg's Pulkovo Airport, he said.

Flight schedules will remain the same for now, although the airline is hoping to obtain an 8:05 a.m. time slot by next winter or summer 2004 British Airways, which currently offers 5:45 p.m. and 8:40 p.m. flights to London, had been trying for several years to get a morning time slot at Sheremetyevo.

The airline had been considering switching airports for two years. In making the decision, British Airways will be able to offer passengers a dedicated check-in area and fast service at immigration, customs and security checkpoints. Business and first class passengers will have access to a British Airways lounge.

Passengers also will be able to check in at Paveletsky Station and make the 40-minute trip to the airport by rail.

Built for the 1980 Olympic Games, Sheremetyevo's international Terminal 2 has been unable to cope with the post-Soviet travel boom. Travelers often complain of poor infrastructure and rude staff.

Sheremetyevo has been trying to spruce up its image, but the changes have been mostly cosmetic -- such as free baggage carts.

I, personally, will miss its unique stuffy aroma of Russian cigarettes (papirosa) and dust that hit your nostrils once you step into the arrivals hall.

2002 Review

In 2002, the Russian Economy saw its fourth-consecutive year of solid economic growth; sound budget management that produced another surplus; a stable currency; reasonable inflation; a world-leading stock market; recognition as a market economy; and, of course, a booming oil sector, which is cranking out 8 million barrels per day for the first time in a decade, meaning Russia's most important industry is back where it started. 

The armed conflict in Chechnya continued to cause problems beyond that region, with terrorist acts being carried out in neighbouring regions and as far away as Moscow. These culminated in the tragic events of last October where the armed siege of a Dubrovka theater ended with a tremendous loss of life; although, had the terrorists succeeded in blowing up the building, the number of casualties would have been far higher. The theater recently reopened after an extensive refurbishment and performances of the musical "Nord-Ost" were staged once again.

March 5 this year is the 50th anniversary of the deaths of Stalin and Prokoviev. Prokoviev died on the same day as Stalin, but because of the outpouring of grief and period of official mourning over Stalin's death, it was some time before the country noticed that Prokoviev had also died.

This summer St Petersburg celebrates 300 years since its founding, having had a lick of (gold) paint in preparation of the tercentenary celebrations. Visas for St Petersburg are said to be of limited availability because of the anniversary since officials wish to reserve them for foreign dignitaries.

Thursday, 2 January 2003

Booming Retail Sector drives economy in 2002

The rising standard of living in the capital is evidenced in the booming retail sector, which enjoyed its greatest year of growth ever, with new supermarkets and hypermarkets opening up seemingly every week. Two leading local chains, Perekryostok and Sedmoi Kontinent, for example, opened 37 and 30 new supermarkets each in the last 12 months, while Turkey's Ramstore unveiled two new hypermarkets and global French giant Auchan undercut everyone with its first mega-mart on the Moscow Ring Road. Not to be outdone, Swedish furniture king IKEA, which already considers Moscow the largest potential market in Europe, this month opened the largest mall in Eastern Europe, the 150,000-square-meter MEGA mall, which is anchored by IKEA's third outlet in Russia and Auchan's second.

Apart from the retail sector, if for no other reason, 2002 could be considered a success for putting August 1998 12 months further away, but much more had been hoped for. In many ways, economists say, it seems as if nothing much has changed at all -- Russia remains a country of contradictions, high risks and good intentions, with a government that is at times unwilling and at times unable to push through reforms that virtually everyone agrees are needed.

Delaying such reforms, economists say, jeopardizes current and future economic growth and makes the nation, already considered overdependent on oil, even more so.

Russia's membership of the World Trade Organisation seems no closer today than it did a year ago. In fact, there has been no progress to speak of on any of the major sticking points, which center on protectionist policies on energy prices, agriculture, financial services and telecommunications. The general consensus now is that it could take Russia, the last major economy outside the WTO, as long as five years to join the global trade body.

The government failed, despite its political will, to make major headway on major reforms, including Gazprom, Unified Energy Systems and the banking sector, all of which will remain focal points for domestic and foreign investors who have seen the Kremlin's political power tested and found wanting. The wait could be a long one. With parliamentary elections slated for December followed by presidential elections three months later, many economists fear little if any major reforms will be undertaken in the next 18 months.